Behind the Kitchen - 12 June 2025 - 4 min read
The Soul of Dum: Behind Our Hyderabadi Biryani
A sealed handi, fragrant basmati, slow-cooked meat and patience - the dum biryani is not a recipe, it's a ritual.
Dum cooking is one of the oldest techniques in Indian cuisine. The word 'dum' literally means 'breath' - the idea being that the dish cooks in its own steam, sealed inside a heavy vessel with no escape for heat or aroma.
At Waves, our Hyderabadi Handi Biryani starts the night before. The meat is marinated in yogurt, whole spices, and a house spice blend we don't share. The basmati is parboiled just shy of done. Both are layered into the handi, sealed with dough, and placed on slow heat.
The result is rice where every grain is separate and perfumed, meat that falls off the bone, and a fragrance that announces itself before the handi even reaches your table. We serve it with raita and a wedge of lemon - nothing more is needed.
Whether you choose the chicken or mutton version, the process is the same. The only difference is time - mutton gets a longer slow cook. Both are worth it.